60 inch bandsaw blade
So my standard ripping blade is 3TPI Skip tooth. That means the teeth are the size they would be if it were 6TPI but every other one is missing. This means the gullets are easily able to carry away the sawdust and I get a smooth and clean cut. If we are crosscutting however or using much thinner material then 3TPI is simply too coarse to get a smooth cut. Here the sawdust is finer and we can get away with smaller gullets without them getting clogged up. 6 8 or 12 TPI may be more suitable. If cutting sheet metal like brass that TPI count may go up to 24. That would still give us 3 teeth in 1/8" material. I recommend that when buying a new blade buy two the same. There is nothing more frustrating than breaking a blade and having to stop whilst a replacement arrives in the post! So I suggest you start with a ½" 3TPI Skip blade for ripping and a ¼" 6TPI for crosscutting and curved work. That should get you through most of your tasks.
The reason there is not a side load is the angle of the side of the tooth. The tooth is bent or set at such a sharp angle on the side that only the top corner of about.010 touches the wood fiber. Of course if you run your band excessively dull it does take on more side load. Now compare the gullet stretch per tooth. Remember both band bodies are .042. The set tooth has the total kerf stress divided between 3 teeth. The swaged full tooth carries the entire kerf stress per tooth plus the side load on 2 sides per tooth. It is easy to understand that the full tooth carries twice the load just because of the top width of .084. Then add the 2 sides of load and we have at least 3 times more tooth load per square inch than the set tooth bands have. What does this mean? From my experience the set tooth pound for pound will perform 2 to 3 times better than a full tooth of the same band width and thickness. This is true even if a special steel is welded to from the full tooth. Let me talk about the body of the band for a bit here. I have spoken of the distortion and how it changes the middle portion of the band to dish on the log side.
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No matter what size or style you choose for your bandsaws bandsaw sharpeners keep that blade at the peak of perfection. Whoa What Exactly Do Bandsaw Sharpeners Do? Bandsaw sharpeners are not really hard to explain. They do exactly what the name implies: bandsaw sharpeners sharpen your bandsaw blades. Bandsaw blades tend to dull with use. Of course this is obvious; all you have to do is take a long look at what that little blade is doing for you. My teeth would get kind of dull and tired if I was munching through that much wood. Having to replace those bandsaw blades can get extremely expensive. True they cost an average of $10 USD per blade but when you have to replace them multiple times you may decide that sharpening that blade is more economic for you. Okay So How Do Bandsaw Sharpeners Work? This is the beautiful part. There are a couple of options to the person that is wanting to sharpen the bandsaw blades rather than of replacing the bandsaw blades.
You just cut along straight lines making it necessary to have a board which has one square side and an edge. Unfortunately majority of woodworkers dont seem to be aware of how to go ahead with it. Successful resawing necessarily demands a suitable blade selection sufficient tension right operational level and the right stock control. Selection of Blade: When you saw a thick stock the blade is subjected to much of pressure with each of its teeth shaving and throwing out waste. Using a blade with three teeth to an inch (TPI) has large gullets to facilitate plenty of waste. The blade is supported on its top and bottom on thrust bearings. During the real process of cutting its only the stiffness or the "beam strength" of blade that keeps the cut going straight and prevents its drift.