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The reason there is not a side load is the angle of the side of the tooth. The tooth is bent or set at such a sharp angle on the side that only the top corner of about.010 touches the wood fiber. Of course if you run your band excessively dull it does take on more side load. Now compare the gullet stretch per tooth. Remember both band bodies are .042. The set tooth has the total kerf stress divided between 3 teeth. The swaged full tooth carries the entire kerf stress per tooth plus the side load on 2 sides per tooth. It is easy to understand that the full tooth carries twice the load just because of the top width of .084. Then add the 2 sides of load and we have at least 3 times more tooth load per square inch than the set tooth bands have. What does this mean? From my experience the set tooth pound for pound will perform 2 to 3 times better than a full tooth of the same band width and thickness. This is true even if a special steel is welded to from the full tooth. Let me talk about the body of the band for a bit here. I have spoken of the distortion and how it changes the middle portion of the band to dish on the log side.
A board with one square edge and side is necessary. Problem is most woodworkers dont have a clue how to do this. Successful resawing calls for nothing more complicated than appropriate blade selection adequate tension setting the fence and proper stock control. Blade Selection: As you saw through very thick stock you put a lot of pressure on every part of the blade engaged in the cut. Each saw tooth shaves out waste. Blades with 3 teeth per inch (tpi) have large gullets which have room for a lot of waste. Thrust bearings support the blade above and below. During the actual cut only the blades stiffness or "beam strength" will keep the cut proceeding straight and free of wander. Its my experience that a quality 1/2" 3-tooth blade gives good results. I tried wider blades with no increase in efficiency.
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Every good bandsaw blade can cut straight lines. Each blade will do so in its own way. In other words each blade has its own "lead angle". How can we determine this lead angle? Some experts suggest using a Resaw Guide. This is like a single point which allows you to change the angle of your feed into the blade. It takes practice to use this method. Moreover this technique requires constant attention. If you have to figure out the right feed direction why not just do it once? Then set your bandsaw fence accordingly and cut straight lines. It is just that easy. Ensure that the blade and fence are both 90-degrees to your table. Take a straight piece of wood about two to three feet long. Mark a line down the center. Cut freehand along the line trying to keep the cut on the centerline. Feed at a normal pace.
These are comparable to scroll saws in capability and size. These bandsaws cannot be used for internal cutting because of the unbroken nature of blades. They have less vibration more power and larger capacity than most scroll saws and are ideal for small work such as box making model building or intarsia. Woodworkers buying this bandsaw should look for one which is solidly built and has a smooth operation rather than the fancy extras such as lasers. A good blade guiding system is essential and at the least look for a bandsaw with guides above and below the table that are fully adjustable. The next size of the bandsaw blade for small woodwork shops are the 14" models. You will find the largest range to choose from in this size. They are most suitable for curve cutting and can still cope with delicate work.