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The hook tooth blade cuts a 10º rake angle that is highly priced by bandsaw users around the world. (c) Skip Tooth - These are the perfect blades for softer and easier types of materials. This is considered a perfect all-purpose blade. This is also highly prized because it is an excellent blade for resawing. This skip tooth blade cuts a 0º rake angle making it perfect for the average user. These blades are probably the most used by bandsaw users. What It All Means The more teeth your blade has per inch the smoother the cut by the blade you will get. However the smoother the cut the slower the operation actually takes. Most bandsaw users recommend having at least 3 teeth in your material at every turn of the blade. This gives added security to your project keeping you safe from harm.
It is my opinion that a good set tooth band with correct curvature that is 1-1/2 wide will outperform dollar for yield a band twice the width at 3 inches that has a full tooth. It is easier to keep the tooth load down on a set tooth band and it is easier to maintain a set tooth band. Full tooth bands require a lot of attention because of the larger tooth load. They require more professional attention. This Professional attention is at a large expense. Want to understand why many people are still big believers in bandsaw mills? Lets explore the subject. In the past do-it-yourselfers who were unsatisfied with the lumber they found at the big box stores or their local sawmill would have had few options. However those days are gone. These days its possible to find a portable sawmill that you can set up and work yourself. But with over 200 companies currently offering these mills how do you find the one that best fits your needs? The right mill for you will depend on how much milling you intend to do and will take into consideration such things as the size of the logs. Also running a portable sawmill is a demanding job and youll need to consider how much effort from you is required to run the machine.
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Tension: Adequate blade tension reduces the blades tendency to lead erratically under thrust. I have found that the standard tension gauge is not accurate. It is better to use a little more tension than indicated. You can check it by opening up the thrust bearings and lateral guides. Back off both above and below the table so they do not contact the blade. Crank the tension gauge to the desired setting. Give the blade a sideways nudge about halfway between the upper and lower wheels. The blade will deflect easily for a short distance. This sideways movement should be 1/4". If you push harder it will bend farther but there is a distinct point where it quits deflecting easily. If you can deflect more than 1/4" then add tension until this deflection is 1/4". Stock Control: How does one cut straight lines? Answer: find out how the saw wants to do it and do it that way.