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Next to release the blade loosen each set of the bandsaws blade guides. Making enough space to allow for the simplest reinstallation of your new blade loosen the upper ball bearing guide and the upper block guides. Block guides must be loosened at all four directions - left-right and forward-back. Following this additionally loosen the lower blade guides beneath the saw table. Each blade guide has an adjustment knob to make this step a bit simpler. Next using the tension wheel (knob) release the tension on the blade. Once tension is adequately released you should be able to slide the blade safely from the blade-wheel through the slot in the saw table. Carefully recoil the blade and tie it off to prevent the thing from becoming an explosive blade disaster. Making Friends With Your New Blade: Opening your new bandsaw blade can also become an explosive blade disaster.
The reason there is not a side load is the angle of the side of the tooth. The tooth is bent or set at such a sharp angle on the side that only the top corner of about.010 touches the wood fiber. Of course if you run your band excessively dull it does take on more side load. Now compare the gullet stretch per tooth. Remember both band bodies are .042. The set tooth has the total kerf stress divided between 3 teeth. The swaged full tooth carries the entire kerf stress per tooth plus the side load on 2 sides per tooth. It is easy to understand that the full tooth carries twice the load just because of the top width of .084. Then add the 2 sides of load and we have at least 3 times more tooth load per square inch than the set tooth bands have. What does this mean? From my experience the set tooth pound for pound will perform 2 to 3 times better than a full tooth of the same band width and thickness. This is true even if a special steel is welded to from the full tooth. Let me talk about the body of the band for a bit here. I have spoken of the distortion and how it changes the middle portion of the band to dish on the log side.
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Take a piece of paper the size of a $5.00 bill and fold it from the back around the saw blade. Move the blade and bank note between the guides/pins and without deflecting the blade tighten the guides/pins to a nice fit around the paper. Do the same for the bottom guide/pins. 4. Position the Thrust Bearings Move the top thrust bearing until it is almost touching the blade. It need not roll when you hand-turn the blade but should roll when you cut wood. Do the same for the bottom bearing. You should now have your blade guides and thrust bearings tuned for accurate sawing. 5. Square the Table The final step is to set the table 90 degrees to the blade. Place a small square (4″ to 6″) on the table against the blade. At the back bottom of the table there should be an adjusting bolt allowing you to change the angle of the table. Turn the bolt until the square shows the blade and table are 90 degrees to each other. NOTE: Each time you change the blade you should go through steps 1 through 5. When you have finished working with your bandsaw and will not be using it for a while release the blade tension. There is no sense in creating a flat side on your rubber tires.
Bandsaw Set up This is one of those tools that must be carefully set up and adjusted before using. Read the manual carefully and follow them closely. This is a job that can take time (even a couple of hours) but it is worth it in the long run. There are many fine adjustments that need to be made in order for a bandsaw to operate smoothly and properly. These tasks include setting the blade tension properly as well as setting the blade guides the thrust bearing and the side bearings. Failure to make these adjustments may result in decreased performance as well as making it more likely that the blades will break. Anyone that owns a bandsaw will tell you that properly used and maintained a bandsaw is the perfect addition to any workshop. A bandsaw will quickly take center stage and do the tasks of many of your other power tools. As is such being able to recognize and understand various types of bandsaw blades is as important to your workshop as a good bandsaw itself.