grizzly g0803 bandsaw
You just cut along straight lines making it necessary to have a board which has one square side and an edge. Unfortunately majority of woodworkers dont seem to be aware of how to go ahead with it. Successful resawing necessarily demands a suitable blade selection sufficient tension right operational level and the right stock control. Selection of Blade: When you saw a thick stock the blade is subjected to much of pressure with each of its teeth shaving and throwing out waste. Using a blade with three teeth to an inch (TPI) has large gullets to facilitate plenty of waste. The blade is supported on its top and bottom on thrust bearings. During the real process of cutting its only the stiffness or the "beam strength" of blade that keeps the cut going straight and prevents its drift.
Tension: Adequate blade tension reduces the blades tendency to lead erratically under thrust. I have found that the standard tension gauge is not accurate. It is better to use a little more tension than indicated. You can check it by opening up the thrust bearings and lateral guides. Back off both above and below the table so they do not contact the blade. Crank the tension gauge to the desired setting. Give the blade a sideways nudge about halfway between the upper and lower wheels. The blade will deflect easily for a short distance. This sideways movement should be 1/4". If you push harder it will bend farther but there is a distinct point where it quits deflecting easily. If you can deflect more than 1/4" then add tension until this deflection is 1/4". Stock Control: How does one cut straight lines? Answer: find out how the saw wants to do it and do it that way.
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Invest the time to do your research and make a wise decision. A bandsaw is more versatile than it appears at first glance. The bandsaw is one of those specialty power tools that does a job that no other tool can do as well. In the case of the bandsaw that job happens to be cutting detailed and accurate curves in wood or metal. The fact of the matter is a good bandsaw has more uses than simply cutting curves. In a home shop it can be used for: resawing thin strips from larger pieces of wood ripping small pieces of stock even cutting tenons and some rabbets However once you start looking at the options you realize that there are a variety of styles and sizes available. So... how to choose the best model for your needs? Bandsaw Type These saws fall into two main categories: floor stand models (also called cabinet models) and bench top models. The floor stand models generally larger in size are what you would probably find in professional shops.
The reason there is not a side load is the angle of the side of the tooth. The tooth is bent or set at such a sharp angle on the side that only the top corner of about.010 touches the wood fiber. Of course if you run your band excessively dull it does take on more side load. Now compare the gullet stretch per tooth. Remember both band bodies are .042. The set tooth has the total kerf stress divided between 3 teeth. The swaged full tooth carries the entire kerf stress per tooth plus the side load on 2 sides per tooth. It is easy to understand that the full tooth carries twice the load just because of the top width of .084. Then add the 2 sides of load and we have at least 3 times more tooth load per square inch than the set tooth bands have. What does this mean? From my experience the set tooth pound for pound will perform 2 to 3 times better than a full tooth of the same band width and thickness. This is true even if a special steel is welded to from the full tooth. Let me talk about the body of the band for a bit here. I have spoken of the distortion and how it changes the middle portion of the band to dish on the log side.