grob inc bandsaw
A bandsaw blade has to be matched to the job in hand and to a lesser extent to the size of the bandsaw. You would not try to rip a 2" board with a tenon saw nor crosscut plywood with a greenwood saw. You would select the right blade for the job and the same is true for a bandsaw. Just because the machine is powered does not mean that one blade will cut everything it wont. So we need a selection of blades dependent on what we are doing. Fortunately despite there being a vast array of blades to choose from we can do 99% of our normal work with just two or three different blades. Blade width Given that the challenge with a bandsaw is to get it to cut straight it is easy to think that the wider the blade the better and to a certain extent this is true. You are likely to get better results with a ½" or ¾" blade than a ¼" one. But the temptation is to go as wide as the wheels will take. Which is an inch or more.
Bandsaw Set up This is one of those tools that must be carefully set up and adjusted before using. Read the manual carefully and follow them closely. This is a job that can take time (even a couple of hours) but it is worth it in the long run. There are many fine adjustments that need to be made in order for a bandsaw to operate smoothly and properly. These tasks include setting the blade tension properly as well as setting the blade guides the thrust bearing and the side bearings. Failure to make these adjustments may result in decreased performance as well as making it more likely that the blades will break. Anyone that owns a bandsaw will tell you that properly used and maintained a bandsaw is the perfect addition to any workshop. A bandsaw will quickly take center stage and do the tasks of many of your other power tools. As is such being able to recognize and understand various types of bandsaw blades is as important to your workshop as a good bandsaw itself.
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You just cut along straight lines making it necessary to have a board which has one square side and an edge. Unfortunately majority of woodworkers dont seem to be aware of how to go ahead with it. Successful resawing necessarily demands a suitable blade selection sufficient tension right operational level and the right stock control. Selection of Blade: When you saw a thick stock the blade is subjected to much of pressure with each of its teeth shaving and throwing out waste. Using a blade with three teeth to an inch (TPI) has large gullets to facilitate plenty of waste. The blade is supported on its top and bottom on thrust bearings. During the real process of cutting its only the stiffness or the "beam strength" of blade that keeps the cut going straight and prevents its drift.
The bench mounted units being smaller are something a woodworking hobbiest is more likely to have. The floor stand models with larger motors and more options are also generally better built much heavier and sturdier. With bandsaws the heavier and sturdier frame will definitely lead to more accurate consistent cuts. Believe me with a bandsaw vibration is NOT your friend. Cutting Capability In reference to cutting size the two issues to consider with a specific model are: The DEPTH of the cut (the distance from the table to the upper blade guides) The Saws THROAT depth (distance from the blade itself to the vertical frame section of the body of the saw) The DEPTH of the cut determines the thickness of stock that can be cut using that bandsaw.