portable timber bandsaw
The hook tooth blade cuts a 10º rake angle that is highly priced by bandsaw users around the world. (c) Skip Tooth - These are the perfect blades for softer and easier types of materials. This is considered a perfect all-purpose blade. This is also highly prized because it is an excellent blade for resawing. This skip tooth blade cuts a 0º rake angle making it perfect for the average user. These blades are probably the most used by bandsaw users. What It All Means The more teeth your blade has per inch the smoother the cut by the blade you will get. However the smoother the cut the slower the operation actually takes. Most bandsaw users recommend having at least 3 teeth in your material at every turn of the blade. This gives added security to your project keeping you safe from harm.
The full tooth has three cutting edges. It has the top or leading edge and the two sides. The tooth load is created by all edges that cut wood. The tooth width on these type blades are usually twice the width of the body. For instance if the body is.042 then the tooth is usually created to be at least.084. So each tooth is cutting a kerf (path) through the log at least.084. The sides of the tooth are also cutting and adding tooth load. All of the cutting load is distributed into the gullet and most of the stress is at the narrowest place of the band which is the deepest part of the gullet. The body is pulling the tooth through the cut and the tooth is under load and is pried backward in micro amounts and the steel molecules at the narrowest part of the gullet are being stretched and being put under great stress. The bandsaw steel is for basic understanding a spring or spring steel. I say this because it has the ability to stretch a certain distance and return to its original shape.
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A board with one square edge and side is necessary. Problem is most woodworkers dont have a clue how to do this. Successful resawing calls for nothing more complicated than appropriate blade selection adequate tension setting the fence and proper stock control. Blade Selection: As you saw through very thick stock you put a lot of pressure on every part of the blade engaged in the cut. Each saw tooth shaves out waste. Blades with 3 teeth per inch (tpi) have large gullets which have room for a lot of waste. Thrust bearings support the blade above and below. During the actual cut only the blades stiffness or "beam strength" will keep the cut proceeding straight and free of wander. Its my experience that a quality 1/2" 3-tooth blade gives good results. I tried wider blades with no increase in efficiency.
A bandsaw blade has to be matched to the job in hand and to a lesser extent to the size of the bandsaw. You would not try to rip a 2" board with a tenon saw nor crosscut plywood with a greenwood saw. You would select the right blade for the job and the same is true for a bandsaw. Just because the machine is powered does not mean that one blade will cut everything it wont. So we need a selection of blades dependent on what we are doing. Fortunately despite there being a vast array of blades to choose from we can do 99% of our normal work with just two or three different blades. Blade width Given that the challenge with a bandsaw is to get it to cut straight it is easy to think that the wider the blade the better and to a certain extent this is true. You are likely to get better results with a ½" or ¾" blade than a ¼" one. But the temptation is to go as wide as the wheels will take. Which is an inch or more.