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When it comes to using a portable sawmill your choice comes down to one of two options: either a bandsaw mill or a chainsaw mill. When considering a bandsaw you have to weigh all of the evidence to decide if it is the best choice for your needs. Bandsaw mills work by means of a blade sliding back and forth horizontally through the lumber. The denser the wood the harder it is for the blade to move. If a blade gets too slow or starts to bind then you wont have a precise cut. The blade has to fight to get through the wood and will start to bend slightly. Plus you run the risk of burning up the motor. The only way around this is to increase the power. Thats why it is better to invest in larger models of bandsaws. If you choose to continue using a bandsaw that is too small for the job then you could end up with wavy cut wood.
So my standard ripping blade is 3TPI Skip tooth. That means the teeth are the size they would be if it were 6TPI but every other one is missing. This means the gullets are easily able to carry away the sawdust and I get a smooth and clean cut. If we are crosscutting however or using much thinner material then 3TPI is simply too coarse to get a smooth cut. Here the sawdust is finer and we can get away with smaller gullets without them getting clogged up. 6 8 or 12 TPI may be more suitable. If cutting sheet metal like brass that TPI count may go up to 24. That would still give us 3 teeth in 1/8" material. I recommend that when buying a new blade buy two the same. There is nothing more frustrating than breaking a blade and having to stop whilst a replacement arrives in the post! So I suggest you start with a ½" 3TPI Skip blade for ripping and a ¼" 6TPI for crosscutting and curved work. That should get you through most of your tasks.
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These are merely approximate indicators so start by moderately tightening the blade which has been placed on the wheels. 2. Tracking the Blade Before you start to plug in the machine make sure the guide blocks and thrust bearings are totally clear of the blade. Rotate the blade wheels by hand. CAUTION: Dont place your finger through the spokes of the wheel. You could severely damage or lose a finger. As it is rotated the blade should move to the center of the rubber tire on the top and hopefully the bottom wheels. If the blade does not seem to center you have to adjust the "top wheel tilt knob" while you hand-turn the wheel. Turn the wheel until you get it tracking on the center of the rubber tires or as close as possible. You may need a bit more tension on the blade but dont overly compress the rubber tires. 3. Adjusting the Guide Blocks/Pins Move the top guide blocks/pins back or forward so the front edges will be right behind the blade teeth.